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             Chikankari embroidery also know as lucknowi embroidery / shadow work / Indian white work. There is so much ... much to talk about " Chikankari ". According to history chikankari was in boom in 18th , 19th century. Authentic chikankari done on muslin cloth is so delicate and its richness of work is unbeatable.

amateur chikankari work
  Chikankari means, not just herringbone stitch done from back side, its much more than that. Initially , long back when i started to learn chikankari i too thought its just herringbone stitch.

                Spreading some light on this , chikankari is combination of,  lots of basic stitches. Apart from this authentic chikankari has minute applique work, mukaish/ badla work , jali work and little bit of  kamdani .  When all these combined together , i would say its perfect "Lucknowi" embroidery.

Not pakka chikankari
                         As my search for authentic chikankari began, i was kind of  sad, i couldn't find most of the information through net. This was one of  the reason to start this blog and share my knowledge and to gain some from you all.  In my upcoming post , will talk in detail and some samples of chikankari embroidery. 


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Gota Patti ( Lappe ka kaam )

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                  Earlier these Gota ( ribbons ) were made with pure gold and sliver, now a substitute Gota ribbons woven on power loom with cotton (warp) and metal (weft) threads. These Gota are cut into different shapes like circle, leaf ( sometimes small ribbons directly hemmed to enhance borders ) to create a pattern. Gota's  are also folded into shapes like rhomboid to create a border.

                 Gota are first stuck with fabric glue on fabric and then  appliqued using couching, back stitch, chain stitch, hem or running stitch. Gota  has tape at its backside for stiffness and also holds ribbon threads from fraying after cutting into shapes.

Buttonhole Twist

My previous post on Rose mania, i had worked Buttonhole stitch with raised effect at the center of  design.

               Well here is its tutorial.

                        Take felt cloth, cut a circle ( required size).          Stitch it to base fabric leaving little space un-stitched for stuffing. Stuff some gauze with the help of a tooth pick and stitch remaining part to base fabric. Now start working Buttonhole stitch around the circle. Once finished with first row of buttonhole stitch, then from second row (of circle) start working buttonhole stitch picking each loop, without catching below felt cloth. After finishing 3 to 4 rows of buttonhole, from next row pick every alternate loop and later, the next row pick each loop. End at center, taking back working thread to backside of fabric and knot it.

                Once buttonhole stitch is worked on padded felt cloth, lets start with detached chain with Bullion stitch. Commence at center, work a chain (loop) piercing …

Kutch Work Pattern

Hi, here comes two more Kutch work patterns, again its inspired by " Karnatak Kasuthi " patterns, its called kutch square and border. Hope you all enjoy these patterns too. You can get these patterns Kutch Square and Kutch Border.

                Happy Stitching !!!!!!