Skip to main content

Hand Pleating Technique to Smock

           
                     Smocking is a form of surface embroidery worked around pleated fabric. Uniformity of  the gathering (pleats) is most important. Ways to form uniform and evenly spaced pleats are dot transfer method, gathering pleats on dotted swiss fabric, gathering the pleats on striped fabric, gathering pleats on gingham fabric. While using checked (gingham) or striped materials, dots are not necessary as the pattern can be used as a guide for the gathering . In case of stripes, horizontal lines have to be ruled on the back of the material in order to keep the rows straight.



Stripe Fabric

Working example with stripe fabric

Working example with Swiss dot fabric

Swiss Dot fabric

Gingham ( checked ) fabric

Working example with Gingham fabric

       Dot Transfer Method Pleating Instruction:



                All smocking dots should be transferred to the wrong side of the fabric.



Instead of dots , its boxed 

Working example with boxed 


                        Pick few threads of  fabric at intersection of two ( vertical and horizontal) lines as shown in above picture.



Pleating with Dot transfer method

                  While working with dot method, work a thread along each row of dots on the wrong side of fabric picking small amount of  fabric at each dot (as shown in above picture). Start with a knot or a back stitch and use a separate thread for each row, leaving generous length of  thread hanging at the end


Pleating example


                     Once all rows are picked, gently pull hanging threads to form uniform pleats. The gathering threads not only holds pleats together but also provides guidelines (straight line guideline)  while working smocking stitches.


Pleated fabric

                  Knotting gathering threads is important, knot two threads as shown in below picture.

Knotting example of  pleated  threads

              Dot transfer tips: While arranging dots,if  the width of columns is 1 cm then the length of rows to be 1.2 cm. This gives more clarity to smocked stitches than the square ones.


Dot transfer instruction

                Material Calculation:



                        The amount of fabric required varies from fabric to fabric, fine fabric like silks takes more material than the thick cotton fabric and also every individual  work with different tension, some will pull stitches more tightly than others. Average is to take at least three times the amount of required material. The stitches used to smock  make a difference too, as some are more elastic than others.



                         So before starting with a project , test sample is important. To pleat a test sample, cut a sample fabric of 8 cm * 40 cm wide. Pleat this sample and tie off  hanging threads with pleats almost touching each other. Now measure the width of pleated sample. For example, if it measures 10 cm, then divide the original width with finished width ie 40/10=4. So by this its gives a ratio of 1:4. So to determine the required amount of fabric, multiply the required width with 4, for example, if required finished width is 40 cm, then multiply 40*4=160, so fabric width should be 160 cm . Keep extra 10 cm ie 5 cm on either side. 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Gota Patti ( Lappe ka kaam )

Gota Patti work also known as " Lappe Ka Kaam ", the most famous work of  "Rajasthan" and origin of this craft. Gotapatti traditionally worked on temple idols, cloths on offering prayer, on royal outfits ( Mughal Era ). These outfits especially worn on auspicious days, weddings.


                  Earlier these Gota ( ribbons ) were made with pure gold and sliver, now a substitute Gota ribbons woven on power loom with cotton (warp) and metal (weft) threads. These Gota are cut into different shapes like circle, leaf ( sometimes small ribbons directly hemmed to enhance borders ) to create a pattern. Gota's  are also folded into shapes like rhomboid to create a border.


                 Gota are first stuck with fabric glue on fabric and then  appliqued using couching, back stitch, chain stitch, hem or running stitch. Gota  has tape at its backside for stiffness and also holds ribbon threads from fraying after cutting into shapes.























Buttonhole Twist

My previous post on Rose mania, i had worked Buttonhole stitch with raised effect at the center of  design.




               Well here is its tutorial.




                        Take felt cloth, cut a circle ( required size).          Stitch it to base fabric leaving little space un-stitched for stuffing. Stuff some gauze with the help of a tooth pick and stitch remaining part to base fabric. Now start working Buttonhole stitch around the circle. Once finished with first row of buttonhole stitch, then from second row (of circle) start working buttonhole stitch picking each loop, without catching below felt cloth. After finishing 3 to 4 rows of buttonhole, from next row pick every alternate loop and later, the next row pick each loop. End at center, taking back working thread to backside of fabric and knot it.



                Once buttonhole stitch is worked on padded felt cloth, lets start with detached chain with Bullion stitch. Commence at center, work a chain (loop) piercing …

Talk on Chikankari Stitches

Let me talk little about chikankari embroidery stitches. In my previous post ,shared little bit information about Applique work in chikankari. In this post i shall discuss few stitches in chikankari.



                     Chikankari embroidery stitches, it is combination of basic stitches and few stitches unique in itself and exclusively used in chikankari embroidery. In chikankari, one has to play with number of strands. Beauty of a stitch depends on, selecting number of strands to work a stitch and if proper number of strands correctly accessed for each stitch, then even a simple stitch looks different.


              In this project, stitches that i worked are Rahet, Tepchi, Phanda, Keel, Balda, Ghass patti ,Bhakya, Rozan, Janjira . I know these names sounds different, Its lucknowi Mughal terms of describing stitch names in chikankari. So let me break it down to simpler version, in the form of  basic simple stitch language.




                   Above picture describes wh…