Fun Stitch !!!! Basket Weave with Open Cretan

           Hi, i am back. Schools started and its time for me to start blogging.  All these days although i couldn't  do much of work, but .............but still kept doing my homework, in the sense, i came across few different types of embroidery which i had not heard much about them. Well its embroideries of Gujarat, apart from Kutch work, many other types of embroidery like Jat, Soof, Karaek, Rabari, Ahir, Pakko, Mutawa ..., etc. list goes so on. I will soon talk one by one on these types.

              Today's post " fun stitch" is influenced by Gujarat. Its very simple like basket weaving. Have a look at below picture!!!!!!

Basket weave using open cretan

               Simple embellishment on a tunic and teamed up with kutch work.

Basket weave with kutch work

            To begin, i simply draw guidelines as below        

Guidelines to Basket Weave

               
                    Come out at point 1 and start working open cretan stitch on inside square ( same as base stitch in kutch daimond ).

Basket Weave

             While ending first square at point 1, pass needle under the thread. Next begin second square, here worked with green color thread. After working cretan stitch at point 2, pass needle under pink thread, same thing is worked again at point 4. While ending second square, pass needle under green thread at starting point of second square. In the same way try to finish rest of 3 squares, following weaving  pattern as shown in below collage.

Basket weave with open cretan

First part of weaving

First part of basket weave

                  Now start with second part of weaving in same way as first part. Click on below image for better view.

Second part of weaving

   
       This type of work is usually done on " Dowry Bag " at the time of marriage in parts of (tribal )Gujarat and is teamed with kutch work, mirror work and other simple stitches.

Basket weave with open cretan on tunic

               Sit back, relax and enjoy this very simple and fun filled stitch .

Parsi Embroidery

          Parsi Embroidery is a bronze age culture. Parsi embroidery originated in china and later got refined, through influence from Persia, China, India and Europe. Embroidery on famous Parsi Gara sari is usually dense, very intricate embroidery worked with satin stitch or just have a border with little sprays and considered to be Parsi family Heirloom. Most saris were red, black or purple in color.

Parsi Embroidery

   Parsi motifs ,

   Flowers like Lily, Lotus, Peony, Chrysanthemum which represents joy and spring season.

   Trees like Weeping willow, Cherry, Pine, Bamboo.

   Divine Fungus which symbols longevity and immortality, believed to protect children, so usually this                was done on child's Jabla, shirt etc.

  Birds like Cranes, Peacocks, Swans, Rooster.


     Other motifs were like pheasants, pagodas, boats, Chinese architectural structure, human figures, scenes of typical Chinese society. Each embroidered gara saree has a story to narrate. It took around 8 to 9 months to complete one gara saree, very labor intensive and orbitant price.


            Now a days authentic Parsi embroidery mainly worked using satin stitch is getting replaced with tambour needle. Satin stitch is worked using tambour needle or satin stitch is getting replaced with chain stitch worked using tambour needle to make it more cost effective, less time consumption.


           Stitches used in Parsi Embroidery are satin stitch, famous Kha-Kha stitch, couching. Occasionally long and short is used.

Forbidden Stitch in middle (kha-kha stitch)

             
                In above picture center portion is worked with Kha Kha stitch also know as Forbidden stitch, peking stitch and also as Chinese knot.

Parsi Embroidery

                 Parsi embroidery is mainly worked with satin stitch, with its variations ie extended satin stitch, bound satin stitch, voided satin stitch giving it realistic effect and embossed satin stitch. Where as couching is usually worked for creepers or stem.


                Above my work, keeping authentic parsi embroidery in mind, i worked with stylized way, whether its pattern or adding little gold jari using couching .

Kashmiri Embroidery

         Kashmiri Embroidery is very intricate and colorful. Kashmiri embroidery patterns are intricate with tiny designs, small detailing. Motifs used are taken from nature like bird motif, floral motif and designs like grapes, almonds etc. Embroidery comprises with vibrant colors both light and dark shades like Red, blue, yellow, green, white etc.

      Stitches used in Kashmiri embroidery : Straight stitch, stem, satin, Buttonhole, Roman, Fly stitch. Occasionally Herringbone, open work, goldwork is done. In Kashmiri embroidery, Chain stitch worked using tambour needle is know as Zalakdozi.

Kashmiri Embroidery

Kashmiri Embroidery

Kashmiri Embroidery

Kashmiri Embroidery

Buttonhole Twist

         My previous post on Rose mania, i had worked Buttonhole stitch with raised effect at the center of  design.

Raised Buttonhole

           
               Well here is its tutorial.

Padding instruction with Buttonhole stitch

                 
                        Take felt cloth, cut a circle ( required size).          Stitch it to base fabric leaving little space un-stitched for stuffing. Stuff some gauze with the help of a tooth pick and stitch remaining part to base fabric. Now start working Buttonhole stitch around the circle. Once finished with first row of buttonhole stitch, then from second row (of circle) start working buttonhole stitch picking each loop, without catching below felt cloth. After finishing 3 to 4 rows of buttonhole, from next row pick every alternate loop and later, the next row pick each loop. End at center, taking back working thread to backside of fabric and knot it.
                   

Detached Chain with Bullion stitch

                Once buttonhole stitch is worked on padded felt cloth, lets start with detached chain with Bullion stitch. Commence at center, work a chain (loop) piercing felt cloth, while ending detached chain stitch, try to end at edge of circle without pulling whole thread ( leaving working thread freely on top ) as shown in picture. Come back again at chain loop without pulling needle out of fabric. Now work bullion stitch, warp working thread 10 to 15 times to needle and very gently pull out needle and end at edge of circle as shown in picture.  Once detached chain with bullion stitch is complete, center gap can be filled with a french knot.

Buttonhole stitch, Pistil stitch, Chain with bullion stitch 

                    Try working with oval. Here in above picture, oval is worked in same manner, top is worked with pistil stitch and detached chain edging.